Smoked haddock is such a delicious fish. It is known rather splendidly as scrod in Boston, Massachusetts. As Finnan haddie in Scotland, where it was originally cold-smoked over peat. And it is, of course, the principal ingredient in one of my favourite comfort foods, the Anglo-Indian dish, kedgeree.

This recipe was my mother’s favourite savoury soufflé. When she made it for the family for the first time, it instantly became mine too. I know a lot of people eschew the soufflé because of the danger of getting ‘that sinking feeling’, but this soufflé has never failed for me yet. A Gruyere cheese soufflé
Is wrapped around a smoked haddock interior. It is simply divine served with a simple salad or French beans. It is the brainchild of the wonderful Michel Roux. He finishes it off with a poached quail egg and a sprig of dill. My mother and I adored parsley so we tended to use parsley instead.
Both in the soufflé and as a garnish.

For the Bechamel
30 g/1 oz butter
30 g/1oz flour
400 ml/ 14fl oz milk

For the Soufflées
6 free range egg yolks, beaten
Salt & freshly ground black pepper
40 g / 1.5 oz butter, softened
110 g/ 4oz Gruyere, freshly grated
125 g / 4.5 oz smoked haddock fillet
300 ml / 11fl oz double cream
8 free range egg whites
1tbsp fresh dill/parsley, roughly chopped

Preparation
,
Preheat oven to 190C/280F/Gas Mark 5
Melt butter in small, heavy bottomed pan, over medium heat, to make Bechamel
Remove from the heat and stir in the flour to make a roux. Return pan to low heat for two minutes, whisking continuously
Remove from heat and add milk, stirring continuously
Place pan back on medium heat and bring to boil, stirring continuously. Reduce the heat and simmer for 4-5 minutes. Stir continuously. Allow to cool slightly
For the soufflé, beat the egg yolks into the Bechamel. Season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Cover with cling film and set aside at room temperature
Grease the inside of individual ramekins with softened butter
Sprinkle a handful of the Gruyere round the inside walls to coat
Place smoked haddock in pan, add cream and place over low heat. As cream comes to the boil, lower to simmer and cook for two minutes.
Turn off heat and leave to rest till cool enough to handle then remove skin and flake fish into bowl, removing any bones. Return to heated cream
In clean bowl, whisk egg whites with a pinch of salt, to soft peaks.
Place one third of the egg whites in to the Bechamel mixture. Stir well.
Add the Bechamel/egg white mixture to the remaining egg whites. Fold in gently, adding gruyere and herbs as you fold.
Half fill ramekin/soufflé dish with soufflé mixture, then spoon on some smoked haddock cream mixture, then finish with more soufflé mix. Mixture should rise slightly above top edge of dish.
Smooth the surface with a palette knife and run it around the walls of the dish, this helps the soufflé rise.
Place in Bain Marie and put in oven for 7-8 minutes, till golden and risen. Serve immediately.